Given the realities of our changing climate, active cooling in all climates warmer than warm-temperate has increasingly become standard. For cool-temperature climates, though, the cooling question is not as clear-cut. Is passive cooling sufficient, or is active cooling unavoidable? What are the pros and cons of the different systems? Will my client ring me up during the next heat wave and give me an earful, or worse?
Passive Cooling
Careful design, moderately sized and well shaded openings, close attention to local climate, and active users have been found to be key drivers of successful passive cooling. Reduction of internal heat gains is also critical, including specification of efficient appliances and compact domestic hot water (DHW) systems that avoid the need for recirculation circuits. If recirculation circuits are unavoidable, then so are high levels of pipe insulation and flow rate control, with reduced DHW water supply temperatures—so long as this is compatible with Legionella prevention. Ultrafiltration and chemical shock disinfection are promising alternatives to the conventional solution of high DHW supply temperatures and thermal shock prevention.
External shading devices are essential, ideally with motorized external blinds that are either user controlled or automated. Even north-facing windows in Passive House buildings need shading, because the very long time constant of Passive House buildings mean diffuse solar radiation can cause overheating. If only fixed shading can be used, then appropriate solutions for each orientation are key, with particular attention to east- and west-facing glazing, which receive more solar radiation in the summer than south-facing glazing (see Figure 2). Deep horizontal overhangs on southern glazing work best (or northern glazing in the southern hemisphere), with slanted vertical fins for east- and west-facing glazing.